We packed our essentials into duffel bags and a day pack and were transported to Kathmandu airport after breakfast. After a 6 hour wait we were suddenly moving. There was a break in the weather and we needed to go immediately.
The flight to Lukla airport was 45 minutes but felt nothing like it. Upon seeing the welcome sign and airstrip, I felt the realisation of a dream was possible. So much needs to go right still but we are here, motivated and we are hungry for adventure!
A tea shop late lunch, a visa for the trail, and we were off.
Even in the fading light I could see we were in the valley of the giants. Mountains stood tall on all sides of us and it was hard to focus on the rocky, uneven trail underfoot. As we only just made it here, our hike would be in the dark for half of it. This means the occasional yak and very few people. We arrived to Phakding close to a chilly 4 degrees, enjoyed a hot shower, team dinner, briefing and sorted our water… and now finally we are in bed ready for a day of incredible elevation gain tomorrow.
Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Starting from our tea house at Phakding 2,610m, we departed at 8:30am ready for a big day on trail.
We hiked along a narrow valley trail with the Dudhkoshi River our frequent friend. This wild rushing river, which is partly fed by glacial lakes, had us crossing 5 suspension bridges; each one more spectacular than the last. Snow has started to appear on the mountain tops above us and I wonder if we will get to actually touch some Everest snow?
The first half of today was spent hiking a “Nepalese Flat” – which means not at all flat but some up and then some down until some more up again. From after our tea house lunch spot at Mount Kailash at 2,835m, we still had 600m of elevation gain to come and soon after we started hiking again, we found our continuous ascent.
Giving way to processions of donkeys and yaks will never get old and I’m amazed by how few people are on the trail due to the flight shutdowns of the previous week. I hear that from today planes began landing at Lukla again and so we will see the true number of hikers on this trail on our way down although that is still some days away. A guilty feeling of serenity exists for us all as we know we generally have more animals than humans to encounter.
Today I can see our team has really come together. We are aware of where we all are on trail; we keep pace as a team and we are keeping us all in check for water consumption (critical when taking Diamox) and niggles as they are appearing.
Our spirits were already good but truly soared when we eventually rounded a corner this afternoon to the spectacular sight of Namche Bazaar, finishing our day at 3,340m. We are in great accommodation where hot showers exist and at some point someone has carried a coffee machine up. A reason to arrive promptly to breakfast at 7.30am.
Namche Bazaar
Today I finally got to see 8,848m Mt Everest! Best of all is the crew I saw it with; we felt it was a powerful moment to have climbed up to almost 3,900m and be rewarded with the sight of the highest mountain on earth.
The hike to this point was “slowly slowly” and you would not believe how huffy puffy it was! The struggle with altitude is real.
Today was a rest day but actually there is no such thing as a rest day, it was an acclimatisation day. We went for a 10km hike with 400m gain – because every time we gain 1,000m, which we pretty much have now, we need to “go up and sleep down.” Otherwise we will struggle (more) with the altitude still to come.
Lunch was at a potato farming village at the base of the most vast and sheer mountains l’ve ever been amongst. I also had the best honey ginger lemon tea of my life.
I have no idea how l’m going to get from here to over 5,500m. Hiking at this altitude is tough. But I have an incredible team – and I’m no quitter either.
Despite tripping over more Irish pubs than yaks on this trail, even with a few hours today to play, we are actively avoiding this side trip. Altitude sickness feels like the worst hangover you’ve ever had so it’s a good deterrent for wanting to go to a pub!
Namche Bazaar to Tengboche
Today we would hike 12km and climb from 3,340 to 3,860m to Tengbouche. Mt Everest was our clear and constant companion and it is the realisation of a dream to be walking closer to her. The trail was very good today and still, we are blessed with few people out here.
Acclimatisation days actually work. I now see the significance of them as I sit in our tea house feeling 9/10 although I’ve had a few bouts of wanting to yak as a yak walks by but that might have something to do with the dust they kick up. It’s so cool to hear all their bells ring on their approach and we can hear them long before we see them (so pull buffs up over face!) It is remarkably slow going though to negotiate the increase in elevation and coping with it physically.
We stopped at a riverside village for lunch which is home to a grand 16th monastery, Phumgithenga (meaning river bank). Then up up up 600m elevation after lunch to our lodge for the night.
Tengbouche is our home for tonight and is about 3,860m. We visited a monastery and received a blessing from a chanting monk. Then we went to the village bakery and I scored the last slice of apple crumble. I enjoyed views across to Mt Everest as I enviously listened to others at nearby tables drinking beer because they’re either Italian or on their way down. A big day tomorrow as we push upwards to 4,400m.
Tengboche to Dingboche
A very sad start to our day as a member of our fab 5 is medi heli evacuated to Kathmandu. Altitude sickness is real and can affect even the most fit mountaineers – as is the case here. I’m in shock and really sad to lose our friend from our adventure.
From 3,844m we had a 450m elevation gain so today was less intense than yesterday although our elevation is now 4,300m! Can you believe that! Almost half the height of Everest summit! The views were breathtaking for the entire 6 hours in boots but our pace was slow as we acknowledged the role the increase of elevation was taking on our bodies.
We lunched at Pangbouche which was one of the worst villages hit by the earthquakes. Dingboche is our home for two nights as we have an acclimatisation hike before pushing on further. The first thing we did on arrival was find a hot shower – the afternoons are cold and the night time temps are sub zero now.
Dingboche
A sleep in and breakfast at 7.15am. Cousin Johnny commented on his breakfast jam being more of a sorbet. The -14 outside can be felt inside even by our condiments.
Did I say there’s no such thing as a rest day in Nepal? Today the plan was for us to ascend from 4,300m to 4,750m before coming back down the mountain. In fact, we pushed as high as 4,903m. We achieved our acclimatisation goal although every step was heavy and slow. We crunched through ice on our way to the mountain and on ascent, cold winds took our breath away. The climb was unrelenting so we stopped often for water as we are all on Diamox. It’s used to alleviate altitude illness but is also diuretic. (Litres more water are now vital.)
Views of Lhotse and Ama Dablam (the banner image at the top) were before us for every moment and were so close we could almost touch them. I’ve never seen such beauty as these snow-capped mountain ranges and I am in awe of their grand presence. It has been such a profound privilege to walk beside their greatness.
A word on our sherpas, porters and Nepalese people. Never have I ever seen a more warm, broad and genuine smile. They must be built tough to live up here but they are generous and exuberant and extremely welcoming to us foreigners with all our naff questions and requests.
From here the goal is Lobouche, Gorek Shep and Everest Base Camp. Another thousand metres of elevation from where I am now / maybe >500m than what I did today. I would so dearly love a Kalar Patthar summit but local issues are complicating things and I’ll hope to summit but see how we go. Anything can still happen so I’m not getting ahead of myself. I feel good and strong with very little muscle soreness- although I am exhausted and breathing at this elevation is noticeably a different ball game. Fingers crossed I am able to touch Lady Everest herself… slowly slowly.
Dingboche to Lobuche
My resting heart rate this afternoon keeps spiking over 100 and it’s not because I just spent $30 on two hot chocolates and one piece of cake at the world’s highest bakery. We are sitting in our lodge at 4,920m by a warm fire away from icy winds outside (bedrooms have no heating and we are sub zero by a long way). This is the last stop before passing through Gorek Shep on our way to Mt Everest tomorrow!!
This has been the most meaningful day on trail. Matt & Linda, and my girlfriend Zana, tried to impress upon me the power of this day. The hike itself, without high altitude, wouldn’t have been a 6 hour 11.5km trek. With higher altitude and climbing, that changes everything.
Being blessed by a chanting monk in a monastery a few days ago was a highlight but today’s experience moved me. Arising over a plateau beside the Khumbu Glacier on our way to Lobuche, we found ourselves within a vast area of monuments. With snowy mountain peaks all around, there were literally hundreds of monuments, some with plaques, dedicated to hikers and climbers from around the world who did not come home. This is the Everest Memorial, Chukpi Lhara. The sheer number of monuments and the pilgrimage their loved ones made to dedicate this to their person, is humbling and saddening.
The thin air was busy today. As you get closer to EBC you can see the demand on helicopters for supplies transfers and medi evacs for summit teams. Every couple of minutes another helicopter goes by in the valley below us. We must be close.
Lobuche to Everest Base Camp
The most incredible day and safe to say it wasn’t just the thin air contributing to lack of sleep but sheer excitement of the day ahead.
Our 8th day on trail and our earliest start for 7 hours on trail, crossing two glaciers. First we hiked 3 hrs to Gorek Shep where we had noodles and ginger honey lemon tea – this drink has become a delicious staple for us all.
For days now, we have been admiring Mt Nuptse and gradually she is revealing more of herself to us. Every day more is seen as we earn it on hard inclines of further increasing altitudes and hike around to varying perspectives on our way. Behind her is Lhotse and Everest. Sights of these three mountains and their close proximity have delighted and lifted us when we have really struggled.
The summit of Mt Everest began to come into view as we approached base camp. The cloud mostly sat just above her, and we were in awe of being so close to such magnificence. Friends we had made along the trail who’d made an even earlier start were beginning the long trek back to trekker villages and tea houses and it was lovely to see them probably for the last time.
Everest Base Camp is an area of about half a kilometre sitting on rock and ice above the Khumbu Glacier. It’s relatively quiet here now as there are 45 people summiting at the moment with this crew, but will be bustling within days and weeks with the dozens of trekking companies from around the world ready to fulfil the dreams of mountaineers. It is a clean and organised village here which is created for just two months of the year.
The infrastructure and professionalism of the mountaineers, expedition crews, kitchen and medical is a well-oiled machine. Tonight at our EBC dinner, we met privately with the logistics and medical leaders and legends who have summited Everest and countless other mountains many times, and now dedicate their lives and careers to supporting the dreams of new trekkers coming through. This is the most fascinating place on earth.
Kalar Patthar
Waking up to crackling ice after the sounds of rockfalls overnight was a magical experience. However, sleeping above 5,350m for me is laborious enough that it’s a real struggle to relax enough to fall asleep. The last few nights have been tough in that regard due to altitude and the dust causing issues with my lungs but the drugs are working and I’m improving fast. Who needs sleep though; at first light I was up and out of our frozen tent where condensation caused snow inside also. Quite the sight! Nothing compared though to what awaited me as soon as I started walking around with snow-capped mountains and the Khumbu glacier before me.
I did a lot of training for this trek and at the time I did not realise that it was for THIS very day. I knew that due to our schedule needing to be changed, Kalar Patthar might not be possible. But when on the day, an early start and fine weather looked possible for me to actually have a go, I went for it! Of our 4 remaining team, one was heli’d down to meet later (knee issues for descent), one now with altitude sickness setting in, and one not fired up for this summit when the trek out was long enough this day as it was.
KP is 5650m on the map or 5,653m thereabouts on my Garmin. Higher than base camp by a long shot (200m) and higher than I’ve ever been.
It’s really hard to describe the experience of hiking up a mountain and needing to breathe, but there is just not enough oxygen available to you. The air is just too thin and too often I am stopped in my tracks.
Soon enough though the summit rocks came into view and although a few minutes ago this felt like an impossible task, that I should quit and hike down, I knew I couldn’t and I reminded myself I have been dreaming of this moment for probably a year. I determinedly climbed the scree, and I scrambled the large rocks. Once at the summit I had the best possible views of Everest and the personal reward for truly enormous effort is something I will remember forever. Thoughts of my hiking friends spurring me on who understand the challenge at this point truly lifted me the final impossible metres.
This was the hardest goal I’d ever set myself for many reasons . I’d trained hard and long for this 12-day trek but on this day I realised all my training was for THIS actual day after waking up at EBC with a big trek down to meet my team.
I have therefore learned what is harder:
- Going for my goal was easier than accepting failure when I could see finally the potential of achieving it.
- Going for my goal was easier than turning back because I knew I’d never forgive myself if I didn’t give it all I had
- Physical struggles can be carried by mental resilience to get you over the line. In my hardest moments I could feel the support from my team.
- Never give up, or you’ll never know how good it feels to succeed.
- Mute the people who don’t back you and turn up the volume on people who stand beside you.
- Your people will love you no matter the outcome. Only you will have to live your result and if you really tried hard enough in the moments that mattered. So, what do you want your story to be?
I was told by someone before:
- It’s too big a day
- The distance is too far
- Most people can’t do this
- You won’t get to camp by dark
- Only go half way
- Turn around now
After? I was told:
- You have done more in a single day than most would be able to from EBC and this is a pretty big exception
- I knew there was no stopping her
- Looks like our determined explorer has made it! Somehow I am not surprised!
- Brilliant to watch!
- Incredible effort at that altitude! She really is a dynamo!
- Such a great achievement and outstanding memories!
…You realise you’ve trail run close to 27km and made it in hours before dark 💪🏼
EBC to Namche
After one of my most fulfilling days on trail yesterday with both Everest Base Camp and a Kalar Patthar solo summit 5,560m or so, I’m feeling actually really good even for the 27km in the legs too. This is due to the great sleep FINALLY at the lower altitude of 4,000m.
Up and on trail we effectively double-hut our way back however we are very high in the mountains with suspension bridges to cross. This means hiking all the way up and down these valleys several times and it was not easy. The views though – wow – I’d do it all again. Aside from yesterday where I now remember no pain and felt I had only wings, this for sure was a harder day on the body (it absolutely wasn’t, but it’s a different kind of physicality).
Seeing hard working porters and yaks with impossible loads on the way up was mind boggling. We are told everything is carried up and this is how (recommend being vego for this whole trip…)
On the way down though, the joy of seeing and smelling these unusual sights, turns into pure appreciation for the hard yards of village life on the trail.
We eventually hike into Namche where we run into all sorts of mates made on trail and make plans for the world’s highest Irish bar and dinner later with another. We celebrate our achievements and there is only happiness between us all. Tomorrow though, will not be easy.
Namche to Lukla
Thankfully today’s early start began with Mel finding an actual coffee shop with the first real coffee of the trip. It was life-affirming.
Despite my gratefulness to my family for this time away, I admit I never truly feel I leave the trail with a happy heart. I love the way of life on trail and the final day or so, such as today, has me in a pool of silent sadness for leaving this dream behind now. It’s been lived though, and incredibly, fulfilled mostly.
The sights, the sounds, the camaraderie of a crew that is humming and the silence – should you choose to stand long enough at any moment to take in what is all around you, is what I will miss until I can again embrace a new adventure.
I can appreciate now the friends who have been immersed in this Sagarmatha world, their enthusiasm in not just reaching out but remaining in contact with me throughout. I’m carrying their memories with me on this trail also and it conjures up their emotions in a way I’m only just beginning to understand from my own time here.
With just few kilometres of high trail left until Lukla, I can see thick swirling clouds in the valley below. This might actually impact our plane flight out tomorrow and perhaps my sorrow for leaving is premature…
…it’s ok… we did get out on a direct flight to Kathmandu and after another day, finally flew home to our families xxx
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