When hearing about a hike, the temptation to ask ‘how far are you hiking’ is innocent enough; however this question is fraught with uncertainties – and the truth is, there is no correct answer. As a South Australian completing the Heysen, I could cover 30-35km a day or 6km an hour if that section of track was favourable. For this Tasmanian Mt Anne Circuit, there were many sheer ridgeline-kilometres that took 2 hours to achieve each 1km. Timing and tyranny of distance is a dangerous and fickle notion to rely upon and past experience might not align with your current surrounds.
I haven’t specified kilometres per day intentionally. People cannot go to Tasmania with a range of average kilometres per hour in mind; I actually think it’s dangerous to try in that landscape. We all hike at different paces and need to be conservative in our approach to trail time.
Day 1 Condominium to Memorial Hut
Our rendezvous point was Maydena and from here we had a three car convoy of happy hikers to the trail head. Some started from here and hike leader Jason and I started after car drops to Red Tape to save an 8km (10km?!) miserable road walk at the trail end.
The walk up to Memorial Hut, 1,033m, was reminiscent of the walk up to Trappers Hut (Walls of Jerusalem); but more exposed. The breathtaking views across to Lake Pedder and Scott’s Peak arrived quickly to us as our ascend was steep and were a reminder of exactly where we were – the wilds of Tasmania’s South West National Park.
A Magical Sunset
Arriving to the hut we found our friends, Leanne, Iwona & Max and we cooked dinner and awaited one of the most glorious sunsets I’d ever seen, across the tops of mountains including the formidable Western Arthurs.
At 0030, 2 motivated young men arrived to camp and although they were up and out at 0530, I managed a chat with them about their plans. This turned out to be fortuitous as they’d taken a part of my kit in the night by accident. A good thing I knew where to find them the next day!
Day 2 Memorial Hut to Shelf Camp
We awoke way above the clouds to see views across as far as Federation Peak, and beautiful Lake Pedder & Edgar Bay. Our tranquility was short lived as we took advantage of good weather and started steeply on trail to climb, and scrambled up to the summit of Mt Eliza, 1,289m.
The summit shelf was spectacular and for a while the trail ambled along a myriad of tarns and alpine plants and cushions. We were alone up here, and the energy of our fun group was high. We considered summiting Eve Peak 1,357m, but reluctantly did not; a move which unknowingly and fortuitously, set us up for success later.
Rocky Road to a Spectacular Camp
The boulder field from Eve to the trail junction of Shelf Camp was a staggering sight! It was only 500m but took us an hour to navigate roughly from cairn to cairn. From here we considered dropping packs and heading off to attempt Mt Anne, but weary hungry bodies instead pushed us further down the track to our camp.
Arriving to Shelf Camp is an incredible experience as it is perched high above a valley with epic views of Mt Anne and the mountain to traverse next. As for pitching a tent, you couldn’t describe the rocky ground at camp as flat and the best option for finding a spot to camp is having a small tent without small crevasses running in between your tent base. Difficult to find but overall there were quite a few good enough spots.
The Treacherous Mt Anne Climb
Camp set up and comfortable, I cast the idea of a summit attempt – and got a few nibbles…. In the end, Max, Leanne and Jason started up the muddy foliage rich trail, past the junction cairn and onto an impressive boulder field. Leanne turned back about halfway to Mt Anne’s base and Max continued to the base where he remained on watch and proved an important navigational aid for our route.
We had been obsessing over the correct route for months but actually being here was a different experience. After a while of climbing and finding dead ends, we unlocked the mystery of the low shelf cairn and could finally see two more.
From here Jason found our route which switched back and forth, climbed around and stepped along and over precarious hand and foot holds. This is an airy, sometimes sketchy climb and should not be attempted by people inexperienced or uncomfortable with exposure.
Tragedy
I hope my enthusiasm for the mountains doesn’t overshadow the truth of the treacherousness that can belie summit attempts.
Twenty-two hours after we had succeeded in our climb, a man fell and died here attempting this same summit. He was an experienced hiker and people within our group had met him on the trail. It has been difficult to reconcile the fact I was within 2km of him and didn’t know to go to him.
Unbeknownst to us, he had separated from his party and attempted the summit alone. We now know he died instantly and there was nothing we could have done other than put ourselves at risk. It was also sobering to see their group name not signed out in the hiker register at the end of our hike.
Day 3 Shelf Camp Storm
Overnight at Shelf Camp, an almighty storm lashed our camp for 10 hours. Tents were levelled, tent poles were bowed and broken, and we all had rivers in our tents. It was enough for doubt to creep into a couple of wise team mates as to whether we should turn back.
I believed optimistically that with a change of weather there would be a change of heart. When the wind stopped, the sun finally beamed and gear dried it was settled that our rest day (included in this trip plan as a Lot’s Wife summit attempt) would instead be spent here.
The views are the best I’d ever seen and with good weather our spirits were renewed. During this day the other 4 in our group arrived and it was great to be here on a new adventure with more of our mates.
The rescue helicopter at 10:30pm woke us all with dread however, and we watched from our tents on the high shelf ledge and tried to make sense of what we were seeing unfold across the way.
Day 4 Shelf Camp to The Lonely Tarns
Coming in to this day, my snack game was strong due to the inactivity of the day before – little did I know I would not have a hand free most of the day to capitalise. Our enthusiasm for departure was mitigated by low cloud which we needed to lift before we could leave. Soon enough our fearless leader, Jason told us it was time to go.
This was a day of very few km and it took all day to do them. We traversed a high elevation mountain ridgeline before arriving to a point of much discussion and anticipation: The Notch. We saw two young yet very experienced girls navigate through without ropes however for our group we used a rope to haul packs.
Leanne, Max, Jason and I were on ropes and Richard hooked with help from Iwona. Once packs were up, our team joined us up the airy climb, we did not use ropes for us however there was a line to hold if confidence in the drop below required it when taking the leap of faith across and up to the Notch summit.
Climbing Mt Lot
With nerves of steel now, there was to be no respite for us and our very next challenge was Lightning Ridge. In gloved hands we traversed the rough rock walls for several hours until the opportunity to summit Mt Lot was before us.
Packs off, we all made the decision for a quick ascent. With clear skies in all directions we were united in our awe for the expansive views before us, as the sun touched on mountains tops near and far.
The Lonely Tarns
Back on trail and with sights set on camp, we made the steep and arduous descent off the mountain. Soon enough we were enveloped by a pandani wilderness and vibrant green, fluffy moss was as prolific as slippery tree roots under foot.
The Lonely Tarns were a serene sight to behold and Leanne, Iwona and I set up camp on the furthest platform (a luxury!) and wandered the few mere metres to our tarn for water.
There had never been a more satisfying or spectacular or technically difficult day for me on trail. This was the Best.Day.Ever
Day 5 Lonely Tarns to Mt Sarah Jane
A bitterly cold night again was a misery for those who still hadn’t thawed or dried out from the storm at Shelf Camp. My gear was rated down to -10°C so at -2 it still took a while to warm up enough to sleep.
When we awoke for our scheduled departure, there was a thick blanket of cloud and persistent precipitation. Packing a wet tent is never fun so we five delayed our departure until mid morning although wet tents were still to be on the cards for us.
We discovered proper Tassie mud this day as we hiked considerably higher and away from still waters of The Lonely Tarns. By lunch time we had made it to the junction for Mount Sarah Jane. Decision time.
Mt Sarah Jane Climb
While some found shelter in a saddle from icy winds, Leanne, Jason and I went to assess the potential for another Abel summit.
Scree and boulders of which all could not be trusted, persuaded Leanne to turn back around 2/3 of the way to the summit. A wise move as the views were not to be rewarding this time and it was a mentally taxing experience having the ground moving under foot at nearly every step.
Summit fever drew us to the prominent summit cairn in good time and with no expansive views to appreciate we had the job of navigating in poor visibility back to base before our loyal friends began to worry.
Beware Loose Rocks!
Enroute, Jason stepped over a large boulder which cascaded with force down the mountain. It’s a good reminder for maintaining scree strategy and not walking under someone whose steps can cause a boulder to obliterate you without warning.
On arrival to our team we had a ‘come to Jesus’ discussion on our immediate future plans due to ongoing poor visibility, broken and damp gear for some and the proximity to the trail exit. I was optimistic for a Lake Judd Camp but the reality of the moment was that 12 hours later we would be off trail anyway and a better offer was floated.
The team unanimously supported Iwona (and Daryl’s) kind offer for a sleepover at their air bnb in Maydena. We would hilariously all be sleeping in one room in warm and comfy single beds after a hot shower and hearty meal.
Schnell Another Day
Before this however we would admire Schnell’s summit and range and determined as we hiked on by that she looked like a relatively easy climb compared to the previous days offerings. An approach from Red Tape would offer the best line of sight for access. Long inviting ridge-lines entice you to cast your eyes up numerous spur trails, along her saddle and offer easy lines to choose from to find her summit peak.
But these are dreams for another day and another adventure. We had committed to essentially double hutting our way off trail before nightfall so we set a cracking pace to attain this win.
Tucked into bed this night by our beautiful Polish hostess, we were like giggling children on a sleepover. We had hiked the Mount Anne Circuit without serious injuries and in wild Tasmanian weather. We could not have packed more in and for me, summiting the many peaks, of which none could be considered easily reached, was greater than I could have expected of myself.
I’m very grateful to my team and hike leader for their generosities of spirit, kindness and positive determination each day for unity and care for each other. We didn’t just complete a difficult hike; we completed a difficult hike as a strongly bonded team with serious mountain skills, great amounts of laughter and memories to last a lifetime.
About The Mt Anne Circuit
This circuit is classified as a Grade 5 walk. It is suitable for very experienced bushwalkers with specialised skills, including navigation, emergency first aid and experience with heights and challenging rock scrambling. The track is rough and steep, and regularly affected by severe weather conditions and walkers should be prepared to turn around or allow extra days. All walkers should come prepared with a personal locator beacon (PLB).
Walkers wishing to camp at either Shelf Camp or Lonely Tarns are required to complete an Overnight Walker Registration. Numbers are capped at 12 per day, but this doesn’t guarantee that you will find a campsite at either place. Traffic is said to be less for mid week departures.
https://parks.tas.gov.au/explore-our-parks/southwest-national-park/mount-anne-circuit/mount-anne-circuit-walk-notes 23/6/24
Next Read: Planning A Pyreenees Walk
Related: From The Archive | A Guide To Safety In The Tasmanian Bush
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